London Fashion Week 2025: Runway to Reality

With LFW set to run from February 20 to 24, the British Fashion Council is spotlighting homegrown talent and pushing for a stronger creative foundation for the industry’s future. But to truly build a future-forward fashion industry, the conversation must go beyond size inclusivity and surface-level representation.

We’ve seen this all before: in 2017, the industry seemed to reach a turning point in its fight for greater inclusivity. Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty revolutionized diversity in cosmetics, and brands were beginning to embrace size representation on the runway. There was hope that a one-size-fits-all mentality was finally shifting.

Eight years later, the picture is more complex. Recent reports show worrying signs that inclusivity is stagnating:

• Size Diversity has stalled. According to The Vogue Business Spring/Summer 2025 size inclusivity report there’s been a return to extremely thin models with little or no body inclusivity on the runways.

• Racial diversity on runways has plateaued. A 2024 report by the British Fashion Council found that while representation of models of colour had increased in past seasons, it has now leveled off.

• Representation of models with disabilities remains disproportionately low. A Fashion Revolution study found that few brands consistently feature models with disabilities, and adaptive fashion remains a niche rather than a mainstream priority.

• Age diversity is still lacking. Mature models are still rarely seen in major fashion weeks, with a handful of exceptions like Dior and Dolce & Gabbana featuring older faces.

• Gender diversity beyond the binary is inconsistently embraced. Some brands, like Harris Reed and Collina Strada, have led the way in gender-fluid fashion, while others have yet to reflect this shift.

This suggests that after an initial push for inclusivity, the industry is losing momentum in creating truly diverse spaces.

Luxury Fashion Faces a Reckoning—Can Inclusivity Be the Future?

The lack of meaningful progress on diversity comes at a time when the fashion industry is facing economic uncertainty. A 2025 McKinsey State of Fashion Report warns of a turbulent year ahead, with luxury fashion slowing down and consumers becoming more price-sensitive. Some experts believe that the key to revitalizing the industry lies in broadening its customer base—by making fashion more inclusive and accessible to a wider audience.

As luxury brands struggle to maintain growth, there’s an opportunity to prioritize inclusivity—not just in marketing, but in design, retail, and functionality.

Beyond Runway Representation: The Forgotten Issue of Accessibility

It's no secret that runways rarely showcase real women's bodies. While the industry debates who gets cast on the runway, a bigger issue remains overlooked: fashion is still largely inaccessible for many consumers.

• Clothing designed for more than aesthetics: Many brands already create pieces that would work for people with mobility or dexterity challenges, yet few highlight these functional features.

• Better retail accessibility: Online and in-store shopping experiences still lack consistent and helpful search filters.

• Expanding representation beyond tokenism: A runway moment is not enough—true inclusivity means integrating disability representation into marketing, product development, and shopping experiences.

Will Fashion Ever Commit to True Inclusion?

This London Fashion Week, the industry has an opportunity to move beyond its repetitive discussions on diversity and focus on structural change.

As the industry gathers in London, there’s an opportunity to push for genuine, lasting inclusivity. The real test isn’t just about who appears on the runway—it’s about who can actually engage with fashion, shop for it, and wear it comfortably.

If luxury brands are looking for their next big move, perhaps the answer isn’t another celebrity-fronted capsule collection. Perhaps the future of fashion lies in embracing the full spectrum of human diversity—not just in size, but in ability, age, and functionality.

Because real inclusivity isn’t just about who is seen. It’s about who fashion actually works for.